Tashiro: Masterfully Grilled Live Eel

Tashiro (田代) in Seto has earned a formidable reputation for one thing: a unique style of charcoal-grilled eel, or unagi. The experience is a spectacle of craft. The chef takes live eels, then in a flurry of motion, fillets and skewers them before grilling them over a powerful charcoal fire. This signature technique creates an unagi that reviewers consistently describe as unlike any other: the exterior is crisped and smoky, while the exceptionally thick fillets remain succulent and juicy inside.

The star of the menu is the unadon, a bowl of rice topped with the grilled eel. Guests rave about the sheer thickness of the fish and the potent, smoky flavour from the charcoal. The 'Jō' unadon, which includes about one and a half eels, is frequently called a bargain, with reviewers in 2024 paying around ¥5,300. The standard 'Nami' bowl with one eel was reported at about ¥3,700. Other highly praised dishes include the unadorned white-grilled eel (shirayaki, ~¥5,100) and, when available, grilled eel liver (kimoyaki, ~¥400). While most praise the balanced flavour of the tare sauce, a few have found it a little strong.

The biggest challenge with Tashiro is getting a seat. Since February 2023, the restaurant has operated on a strict members-only, reservation-only basis, and it is not accepting new members. This makes it effectively inaccessible for most international visitors unless they are accompanied by a member. Other practical points to note are that the small dining room gets very smoky from the grill, and photography or posting on social media is strictly forbidden. For the quality and portion size, those who can get in consider it outstanding value.

• Booking: Strictly members-only. As of 2023, new members are not being accepted. Dining is only possible when accompanied by a member. Walk-ins and non-member reservations are not accepted under any circumstances.
• Getting There: A 10-minute walk from Owari Seto Station on the Meitetsu Seto Line.
• Payment: Cash only. Credit cards, electronic money, and QR code payments are not accepted. A service charge is added to the bill.
• Rules: Photography, video, and social media posts of the restaurant are prohibited.
• Atmosphere: The dining room is small and becomes very smoky from the open grill. Expect your clothes to absorb the smell.
• Seating: There are 14 seats, including 12 at tables and 2 at a counter. Private rooms are not available.
• Smoking: The restaurant is non-smoking inside. A designated smoking area is available outside.
• Parking: A shared parking lot for the local shopping area is available.