Curiosity drives the creative spirit that powers this restaurant. There are no standard menu items: the direction is always forwards, never looking back on past dishes. Technique honed at a ryotei overlays creativity learned at an old-school Osaka kappo. Hamo is deboned, producing a texture of luxuriant plumpness. New techniques create new taste sensations, so eel are salt-grilled, not dipped in sauce. Ingenuity is everywhere, yet the ingredients are always the star.