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Restaurant

Inaka no Taiho: Farm-to-Table Chinese Cuisine

田舎の大鵬

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Photos: Tabelog

A unique single-group Chinese restaurant on a farm in the mountains of Ayabe, Kyoto. Guests experience a meal from field to plate, often beginning with the on-site slaughter of a chicken, for a profound taste of whole-animal cookery.

Price range$$$$$
Tabelog rating3.99 / 551 ratingsExcellent — roughly the top few percent nationwideJapanese diners rate strictly — 3.5 is excellent, 4.0 exceptional.View on Tabelog
Opening hoursHours are not fixed. Please check with the restaurant when booking.
Address2-1 Betto, Yatsuaicho, Ayabe-shi, Kyoto, Hasugamine Nojo
MapOpen on map →

Inaka no Taiho (田舎の大鵬) offers a Chinese dining experience unlike any other. Located on a farm in the mountains of Ayabe, north of Kyoto, the restaurant serves only one group of guests per day. The meal is a profound exercise in farm-to-table philosophy, where chef Tatsuya Kawasaki—who trained in the Nijo 'Taiho' lineage—raises many of his own ingredients. For many visitors, the experience begins with a tour of the farm and the on-site slaughter and butchery of the chicken that will form the centerpiece of the meal.

Guests consistently praise the incredible freshness of the food, particularly the chicken and offal, which may be served raw, quickly cooked, or in a rich fire-pot. Other standout dishes include claypot rice, daikon mochi, venison jerky, and mapo-style dishes made with shiitake mushrooms from the farm. The meal is an education in whole-animal cookery and the use of fermented and preserved produce, often paired with natural wines.

While the food receives universal acclaim, visitors should be aware of several practical challenges. The restaurant is very remote, and booking is difficult. The on-site slaughter can be a confronting experience. As dining is on a semi-outdoor terrace, guests are exposed to the elements, including cold, rain, and summer insects.

Dinner is a multi-course omakase menu. Reviewers recently paid between ¥11,000 and ¥15,000 per person for the food, though some bills ran as high as ¥30,000 with drinks. For those who embrace the full, intense experience, it represents excellent value; for those seeking a simple meal, it may not be the right fit.

  • Booking: Reservations are essential and must be made well in advance. The restaurant serves only one group per day, with a minimum of four and a maximum of twelve people.
  • Getting There: The restaurant is in a remote mountain location. A car is strongly recommended. By public transport, the journey from Kyoto takes 90–120 minutes, involving a train to JR Ayabe Station, an infrequent bus, and a 20-minute walk.
  • Payment: Cash only. Credit cards, electronic money, and QR code payments are not accepted.
  • The Experience: Be prepared for an intense farm-to-table experience that includes witnessing the on-site slaughter and butchery of animals.
  • Seating & Dress: Dining is on an open terrace. Dress for the weather, with warm layers in cooler months and insect repellent in summer.
  • Parking: Available on site.