Tabelog ratingKusajiki Nakahigashi (草喰 なかひがし) offers a dining experience deeply rooted in the mountains and fields surrounding Kyoto. Chef Hisao Nakahigashi is famous for his "sojiki" philosophy—eating the wild—crafting kaiseki menus from seasonal herbs and vegetables, many of which he forages himself. This is less a conventional meal and more a story of the season, told through meticulously prepared dishes served with a warm narrative from the chef at the counter.
Guests consistently praise the celebration of nature on the plate. Standout courses often feature seasonal wild vegetables (sansai) like bamboo shoots (takenoko) and kogomi ferns, alongside river fish preparations such as carp and firefly squid (hotaru-ika). The meal builds to a theatrical finale: rice cooked in a traditional kamado hearth, served with its crispy scorched layer (okoge), a simple grilled mezashi (dried sardine), and a raw egg, which guests have nicknamed the "New York bowl."
However, the restaurant's distinct focus is not for everyone. Some international visitors, accustomed to menus centered on wagyu or fatty tuna, find the prominent bitter and earthy notes of the foraged plants unfamiliar. A few reviewers have also noted inconsistent seasoning, with some courses tasting bland and others quite salty. While many foreign guests report a warm welcome, there have been recurring online reports of difficulty for non-Japanese speakers when making reservations.
Lunch is typically priced between ¥10,000 and ¥14,999, while dinner ranges from ¥30,000 to ¥39,999. Recent reviewers paid around ¥12,000 for lunch plus a 10% service charge, with dinner bills including drinks reported around ¥22,000 to ¥24,200. For diners seeking a unique expression of Kyoto's terroir, it represents excellent value; for those wanting a more conventional luxury meal, it may feel less so.
- Booking: Reservations are essential and highly competitive. Bookings open by phone at 8:00 AM on the 1st of the preceding month. Using a hotel concierge or booking service is recommended.
- Getting There: The restaurant is a 3-minute walk from the Ginkakuji-michi bus stop, served by Kyoto City Bus lines.
- Payment: Credit cards (Visa, Master, JCB, Amex, Diners) and transportation IC cards (like Suica) are accepted. QR code payments are not.
- Seating: The restaurant has 12 counter seats and two private tatami rooms on the second floor.
- Language: Service is primarily in Japanese, though the chef makes an effort to explain dishes in English.
- Age Restriction: Children are welcome, but generally only those in the upper grades of elementary school and older.
- Dress Code: A smart casual dress code is requested. Please avoid flip-flops, beachwear, or gym clothes.
- Smoking: The entire restaurant is non-smoking.
- Parking: There is no parking available.
