Tabelog ratingMiyamaso (美山荘) is not just a restaurant, but a destination. Housed in a century-old sukiya-style building by a river deep in the mountains of Hanase, north of Kyoto, it offers a profound connection to nature through its food. The specialty is tsumikusa-ryori, a form of kaiseki built around freshly foraged wild plants and herbs. The experience is meticulously orchestrated, with guests seated to face the river, making the sound of the stream and the view of the forest integral parts of the meal.
Guests consistently praise the entire experience as a singular, almost spiritual event. The hospitality of the proprietress (okami) and her staff is legendary, with many noting the careful explanations of each dish. The meal often begins with a stunning basket of wild herbs (摘草籠, tsumikusa-kago) and features exceptional preparations of local river fish like amago, ayu, and even koi carp sashimi. Seasonal highlights such as spring bamboo rice and desserts made with mugwort (yomogi) or Japanese horse-chestnut (tochi) are frequently cited as unforgettable.
The main challenge is practical: Miyamaso is very remote. The drive involves narrow mountain roads, and public transport is not a viable option for lunch visits. Reservations are essential and must be made months in advance, with solo diners sometimes finding it difficult to secure a spot. Reviewers agree that the high price is justified by the unique, terroir-driven experience, but it is not a meal for those who prioritize convenience or familiar flavours.
Expect to pay for a multi-course menu, with tiers recently cited by reviewers at ¥22,270, ¥27,830, and ¥33,880, plus a 15% service charge. A recent bill for one diner came to ¥25,047 including a course and sake, while another party's meal with drinks totalled ¥27,324.
- Booking: Reservations are mandatory and must be made months ahead. The restaurant accepts bookings for parties of two or more.
- Getting There: A private car or taxi is strongly recommended. Public transport is difficult; the bus is infrequent and requires a 2km walk from the stop. A shuttle service is offered, but only for guests staying overnight at the inn.
- Payment: Major credit cards (VISA, Master, JCB, AMEX, Diners) are accepted. Electronic money and QR code payments are not.
- Seating: The restaurant has counter seats and several private tatami rooms.
- Smoking: A designated smoking area is available.
- Parking: On-site parking is available.