Suehiro Zushi: Counter Sushi and the Original Maguro Hagashi

Suehiro Zushi is credited as the birthplace of maguro hagashi. The chef peels the connective membrane off southern bluefin tuna so the flesh melts with no sinew, then grills that membrane over charcoal and serves it as a snack. The founder, Mochizuki Eiji, is in his mid-80s and still serves at the counter. Dinner there is part theatre: whole tuna blocks are sliced in front of you, and raw abalone is handed over to bite. The restaurant was selected for Tabelog's Sushi EAST "Tabelog 100" in 2021 and 2025.

Nearly every positive review names the hagashi. Reviewers also single out the hirame (flounder) with yuzu salt, the nihamaguri (simmered clam), anago (conger eel) served two ways, and abalone either fried or steamed for five hours. Toppings are very large. The meal ends with a huge slice of Crown melon with brandy, which reviewers mention constantly.

A real minority, mostly first-timers, left disappointed. Their complaints include sinewy tuna and thin toppings in the cheaper lunch sets, and rushed, conveyor-belt pacing in the private rooms. Some found too many cooked dishes in the set courses, and some sensed that regulars get better fish. One caller reported curt phone manners. The counter draws far fewer complaints than the rooms.

Lunch sets start at around ¥2,400. Reviewers between 2024 and 2026 paid about ¥4,000 for the mid-range chūjō set and ¥6,000–6,300 for the tokujō (top) nigiri. Counter omakase ran ¥11,300–18,000 per person, for example 17 pieces for ¥11,300 at lunch or 14 pieces for ¥13,000. Dinner for two with sake and melon came to about ¥47,000. The house sake, Garyubai, was ¥2,390 per carafe. Expect around ¥6,000–8,000 per person at lunch and roughly ¥20,000–30,000 at dinner. Hagashi is often an add-on to set courses rather than included.

The counter is good value: reviewers repeatedly say comparable quality in Tokyo would cost double, and portions leave people stuffed. The cheapest lunch sets are the weak spot.

• Access: 8 minutes' walk (about 400 m) from JR Shimizu Station.
• Booking: reservations by phone (054-366-6083). Book counter seats weeks ahead for dinner. Some reviewers got a lunch table the same day, but walking in is not reliable. Ask for the counter, not a private room.
• Payment: credit cards accepted (Visa, Mastercard, JCB, Amex, Diners). Electronic money and QR payments are not accepted. Some reviewers reported paying cash only, so carry cash as a backup.
• Seats: 83 in total: 11 at the counter, 12 at tables and 60 in the tatami room. Private rooms for 6 and for 10–20 people. The whole venue cannot be booked for private use.
• Children: welcome.
• Smoking: non-smoking inside; smoking only outdoors.
• Parking: available.
• Menu: there is no printed menu or price list at the counter.
• Takeaway: the inari shop next door sells out early.