Tabelog ratingTempura Kondo (てんぷら 近藤) is not just a restaurant; it's a pilgrimage site for devotees of tempura. In his intimate Ginza counter, chef Fumio Kondo demonstrates a technique that redefines the art of frying. His batter is famously thin and light, creating a delicate shell that steams the ingredients within rather than soaking them in oil. The experience is as much about the theatre as the food, with guests watching the master work over two copper pots set to different temperatures.
Guests consistently praise the vegetable tempura, which Kondo elevates to an art form. Pieces like asparagus, lotus root, and whole piman peppers are frequently highlighted. However, the undisputed star is the signature satsumaimo: a thick slice of sweet potato slow-fried for over 20 minutes until its interior becomes intensely sweet and cake-like. Delicate seafood, including shrimp, whiting (kisu), and scallops, also receives high marks for its freshness and perfect execution.
Some diners find the service brisk, with meals typically lasting around 90 minutes to two hours. A few have noted occasional inconsistencies, with some pieces being less crisp than others, particularly if seated at the secondary counter run by apprentices. As is common with tempura restaurants, expect your clothes to pick up the smell of frying oil.
This is a special-occasion meal. Reviewers in 2024–2026 reported lunch courses like the 'Tsubaki' for around ¥16,500, while dinner omakase ranged from ¥22,000 to ¥33,000. The signature sweet potato is an add-on, often costing about ¥1,100. Most feel the price is justified by the quality and unique technique, with lunch offering particularly good value.
- Booking: Reservations are mandatory and should be made well in advance, especially for dinner.
- Seating: The restaurant has two counters. You can request the main counter, where Chef Kondo often works, but it is not guaranteed.
- Getting there: It's a 3-minute walk from Ginza Station (Exit B5), on the 9th floor of the Sakaguchi Building.
- Payment: Major credit cards (Visa, Master, JCB, Amex, Diners, UnionPay) are accepted. Electronic money and QR code payments are not.
- Good to know: Order the signature sweet potato (satsumaimo) at the beginning of your meal as it requires a long cooking time. The restaurant is non-smoking. Refrain from wearing strong perfume.