Ichi Unagi: Masterfully Grilled Eel

Ichi Unagi (一鰻) is a testament to single-minded dedication. In a quiet corner of Ito, a single chef works behind a nine-seat counter, focusing on one thing: grilling eel to perfection. The space is hushed and the chef is quiet, channelling all his attention into the methodical preparation. He painstakingly removes every tiny bone before slow-grilling the pre-steamed unagi over a gas flame, creating a texture that reviewers consistently describe as utterly unique: crispy on the outside, yet impossibly soft and melting within.

The star of the minimal menu is the unadon (grilled eel over rice), praised for its sublime texture and a subtly balanced tare sauce that enhances, rather than overpowers, the eel. Unlike most unagi restaurants, it's served with freshly grated hon-wasabi instead of sansho pepper, a detail many guests appreciate. The set also includes a delicate house-made eel jelly (unagi nikogori) and a large, comforting liver soup (kimosui). For a different preparation, the salt-grilled shio-yaki also earns high marks.

Diners should be prepared for the experience. Reviewers frequently mention the high price, with the unadon recently costing around ¥8,800. The one-chef operation can also mean long waits of up to an hour, even with a reservation, and some find the quiet, intense atmosphere uncomfortable. However, for those who prize craftsmanship and a singular culinary experience, most agree it is worth every yen and every moment of the wait.

• Booking: Reservations are essential and can only be made by phone. It can be difficult to get through, so persistence is key.
• Getting There: The restaurant is a 3-minute walk from JR Ito Station.
• Seating: There are only 9 seats at the counter.
• Payment: Cash only. Credit cards, electronic money, and QR code payments are not accepted.
• Atmosphere: The room is very quiet and conversation is expected to be kept low. The chef speaks limited English. Photography of the interior is generally forbidden; ask for permission before photographing your food.
• Smoking: The entire restaurant is non-smoking.
• Parking: No parking is available.