Tabelog ratingIn a renovated house beside Sapporo’s Nakajima Park, Nukumi (温味) offers an intimate and highly seasonal kaiseki experience. Chef Yamamoto’s cooking is rooted in classic technique, with a focus on drawing out the essential flavours of premium Hokkaido ingredients like local abalone, uni, and oysters.
Guests consistently praise the clarity and depth of the dashi, which forms the base of the restaurant's lauded soups (椀物). Other highlights include the seasonal appetiser platter (八寸), theatrical presentations like sweetfish (ayu) served in a bamboo cage, and fragrant matsutake mushrooms steamed in an earthenware pot (土瓶蒸し). The meal often concludes with a rich takikomi-gohan, a seasoned rice dish cooked with crab or oysters, with any leftovers thoughtfully boxed for guests to take home. The quality of the sashimi, particularly flounder (hirame) and tuna (maguro), is also frequently noted, served on beautiful ceramics.
While the cooking receives high marks, some international visitors report challenges. The booking process can be difficult, with a web-first policy and limited phone support. Service is primarily in Japanese, and an English menu is not typically available. The alcohol list is also noted for its high markups, which can significantly increase the final bill.
The omakase menu is priced around ¥30,000 per person. Reviewers in 2024 reported a bill of about ¥29,000 for a single diner, while a 2023 visit for two with significant drinks cost ¥90,310. The high cost of alcohol is a recurring theme, with one guest noting a three-gou serving of sake was billed at ¥21,000. For diners seeking top-level kaiseki in Sapporo, the food justifies the expense, but the value diminishes for those who require English service or plan to drink heavily.
- Getting There: Nukumi is a 5-minute walk from Exit 3 of Nakajima Park subway station.
- Reservations: Reservations are essential and must be made well in advance. Booking can be difficult for international visitors. If you wish to sit at the counter to watch the chef, be sure to request it when booking, as some guests are seated in private rooms.
- Language: Expect service to be almost entirely in Japanese. There is no English menu, so a translation app may be helpful.
- Payment: Major credit cards (VISA, Master, JCB, AMEX, Diners, UnionPay) are accepted. Electronic money and QR code payments are not. A 10% service charge is added to the bill.
- Age Restrictions: Children of elementary school age and older are welcome, provided they are able to eat the full adult course menu.
- Seating: The restaurant has 14 seats, including a 6-seat counter and several private rooms.
- Smoking & Parking: The entire restaurant is non-smoking. Parking is not available.
