Sushi Hidetaka: Hokkaido Seafood with Edo-mae Craft

At Sushi Hidetaka (寿し ひでたか), an intimate eight-seat counter in Sapporo, the focus is squarely on the bounty of Hokkaido. Chef Hidetaka Sato applies classical Edo-mae techniques like ageing and curing to local seafood, creating an omakase experience that is both a showcase of regional ingredients and a display of meticulous craftsmanship. The small size of the restaurant ensures a close interaction with the chef, who is often praised for his friendly explanations and thoughtful sake pairings.

Guests consistently praise the quality of the local fish, with standouts including hokke (Atka mackerel), nishin (herring), steamed Ezo abalone, and a signature dish of rice topped with rich Ezo bafun uni. The meal begins with a long series of small, well-executed tsumami (appetizers) before moving on to the nigiri, which are noted for their small, balanced and mellow-vinegared shari (sushi rice).

While the quality is high, some reviewers find the portions small for the price, feeling that extra orders are necessary. A minority of guests have also noted occasional inconsistencies, such as a piece of tuna that wasn't at its peak or appetizers that felt simpler than expected. The omakase course costs around ¥27,500–¥29,700, according to recent reviews. With drinks and additional pieces, diners should expect a final bill in the mid-¥30,000s; reviewers have reported totals like ¥32,945 and ¥36,520. It offers good value for those prioritising top-tier Hokkaido seafood and a chef-led experience, but less so for diners seeking large portions.

• Getting there: The restaurant is a short walk from Hosui Susukino Station, located on the first floor of the Enju Building.
• Reservations: Essential. You must book weeks in advance via the restaurant's website, as the eight-seat counter fills up quickly.
• Seating: All seating is at the counter.
• The experience: The meal is a single omakase course, with the option to add extra nigiri. The chef speaks some English and explains the dishes to international guests.
• Payment: Major credit cards (Visa, Master, JCB, Amex, Diners) are accepted. Electronic money and QR code payments are not.
• Rules: The restaurant is entirely non-smoking. Parking is not available.