Tobi: Kanazawa Sushi Omakase in the Taihei-zushi Tradition

Tobi (飛) is run by a chef who spent about 25 years at Taihei-zushi, the now-closed Kanazawa institution, and he still serves its signature dishes. The omakase moves between nigiri, small dishes, warm steamed sushi and rolls, and each roll is wrapped in a different nori. Many diners mention a wasabi tasting, in which you compare two graters before the closing kanpyo (gourd) roll. Tabelog has named Tobi to its Sushi WEST “Tabelog 100” in 2021, 2022 and 2025.

Nearly every review singles out the nodoguro mushi-zushi, rosy seabass steamed over warm vinegared rice and kombu. Many call it the best thing they ate in Kanazawa. Other recurring favourites are the steamed snow-crab or hairy-crab sushi, the crisp-edged eel hand roll, the seared negitoro roll and the knife work on the squid. Guests also praise the friendly, talkative chef, the attentive staff and the Kutani porcelain. Rare Hokuriku sake is poured in half-measures, so you can taste several.

Criticism is minor. A couple of diners found the small dishes unremarkable or wanted more nigiri, since some courses include only 2–7 pieces. Some find the rice and the tamago on the sweet side, and the konowata (sea-cucumber innards) divides opinion. Guests seated in the private room regret not watching the chef at work. One 2025 diner found the head chef absent, so he may not always be at the counter.

Typical spend is ¥15,000–19,999 at both lunch and dinner. Reviewers in 2024–2026 paid around ¥14,000 for the standard omakase and about ¥20,000 for the higher or crab-season course. One couple paid ¥31,600 including extras and tea. A half-bottle of champagne was about ¥7,000, while four half-measures of sake came to around ¥3,000. Reviewers call it emphatically good value and say the same meal in Tokyo would cost far more, with nothing lost in portion or quality.

• Booking: essential, so do not plan to walk in. Reserve by phone on 076-255-2768, up to two months ahead. The private room sometimes frees up at short notice.
• Getting there: about 6 minutes' walk from the Musashi-ga-tsuji bus stop, or 1,358 m from Hokutetsu Kanazawa Station. It is near Oyama Shrine, about 20 minutes' walk from Kanazawa Station.
• Format: omakase only, lasting about 1.5–2.5 hours.
• Seating: a small counter plus private rooms for 2 and 6 people. Private hire is available, and solo diners are welcome.
• Payment: VISA, Mastercard, JCB, AMEX and Diners are accepted. Electronic money and QR code payments are not accepted.
• Smoking and parking: the restaurant is entirely non-smoking and has no parking.
• Hours: closed Wednesday and Thursday, with no lunch on Friday. Hours may change, so check before going.