Komatsu Yasuke: Lunch-Only Omakase at a Hand-Served Sushi Counter

Komatsu Yasuke is the Kanazawa counter of Kazuo Morita. Now in his 90s, he is a sushi legend of western Japan and is often named alongside Sukiyabashi Jiro. The service is the draw: at the counter, each piece is placed directly into your palm. The signatures are distinctive. Squid is sliced paper-thin into threads and pressed with salt and sesame. Unakyu is a hand roll of crisp, just-grilled eel and cucumber in toasted nori. Negitoro is fatty tuna chopped with a heap of shredded leek. The counter has held a Tabelog Award every year since 2019.

Unakyu comes up in most reviews, and many diners order it twice. Reviewers also single out the squid, the opening marinated tuna nigiri with konowata (salted sea-cucumber innards), sweet amaebi shrimp, simmered clam, and anago finished with salt and yuzu. Many find the young chefs friendly and relaxed, and plenty of guests rebook on the way out.

The main caveat is that Morita himself is usually absent, especially at later seatings. Regulars say his apprentices' sushi is very good but not the same. Several reviewers found the base course small and rushed, at about 40 minutes. Some found the room noisy and casual for the price, and say the rice at the tables tends to crumble. Late seatings can start up to 40 minutes behind schedule. One diner was charged ¥3,300 for marinated tuna and shirako (cod milt) that were added without asking.

The restaurant serves lunch only, and there is no dinner service. In 2025–2026, reviewers paid around ¥11,000 for the base omakase. With a few extra pieces the bill came to about ¥17,000–20,000, and with sake and snacks about ¥30,000 a head. The yajikita takeaway rice balls cost reviewers ¥2,500–3,000 for two. Japanese reviewers repeatedly describe it as roughly half the price of comparable Tokyo counters. That makes it good value, although less so if you take only the base course at a table.

• Getting there: 4 minutes' walk (about 290 m) from JR Kanazawa Station, and 193 m from Hokutetsu Kanazawa. The entrance is at the back of the Kanazawa Chaya hotel annex. Wait in the hotel lobby until you are called.
• Booking: reservation only, so walk-ins are not possible. Book by phone on 076-231-1001. Lines open three months ahead, and you should expect many redials, although cancellations occasionally turn up. The phone is not answered on Wednesdays or Thursdays.
• Seatings: 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00. Later seatings can run late.
• Seats: 18 seats in total: 10 at the counter and three tables. Ask for the counter, because the tables miss the hand-to-hand service. There are no private rooms and no private hire.
• Payment: Visa, Mastercard, JCB, Amex and Diners are accepted. Electronic money and QR payments are not accepted.
• Extras: confirm the price of any added pieces before they are served.
• Other: non-smoking, with free Wi-Fi and takeout available. There is no parking, so use a nearby car park. Little English is spoken, but staff make an effort.