Yamasei: Jiyaki-style Unagi and Suppon

Yamasei is a temple to unagi (freshwater eel) for diners who seek out the finest expressions of the craft. Located in Matsumoto, it stands apart for its dedication to the jiyaki style of grilling, where the eel is cooked directly over high heat without the steaming step common in Tokyo. The result is a textural triumph: a wonderfully crisp, fragrant skin giving way to a rich, meltingly soft interior.

Guests consistently praise this execution, highlighting the unadorned shirayaki (white-grilled eel) and the classic lacquered unajū box as definitive versions of each dish. The kimo-yaki (liver skewers) are also singled out as a must-try. For those seeking a rarer delicacy, Yamasei offers expertly prepared suppon (soft-shell turtle) courses, though these may require booking in advance. The experience is complemented by a well-balanced sauce that enhances rather than overpowers the eel, a thoughtful selection of wine and sake, and the warm, personal service of the chef in a polished, traditional setting with a view of a small garden.

Diners should be aware that this is an intimate and expensive experience. The restaurant is small, and some reviewers note that certain dishes can sell out. The staff and menu are primarily in Japanese, so visitors with no knowledge of the language may wish to use a translation app.

Reviewers report typical lunch spending around ¥6,000–¥7,999 and dinner from ¥20,000–¥29,999. Recently quoted prices include an unagi course for around ¥19,800, a combined unagi and suppon course for ¥26,400, a single unajū for ¥6,700–¥6,800, and shirayaki for about ¥6,500. While costly, those who come specifically for top-tier unagi describe it as excellent value and worth travelling for.

• Booking: Reservations are required for dinner and strongly recommended for lunch. Bookings can be made via TableCheck. Due to the very limited seating, booking well in advance is essential.
• Getting There: The restaurant is a 17-minute walk from JR Matsumoto Station.
• Seating: There are only 13 seats, including 5 at the counter and 8 at tables. There are no private rooms.
• Payment: Major credit cards (VISA, Master, JCB, AMEX, Diners) and QR code payments are accepted. Electronic money is not.
• Language: Service and menus are primarily in Japanese.
• Smoking: The entire restaurant is non-smoking.
• Parking: There is no parking available.